Everything I paint already has a finish on it. That is because I am always dealing with antique and vintage pieces, so all of the information you can find on this site about painting furniture, up until now that is, is not applicable to unfinished wood furniture. The process for painting a raw, unfinished surface is a bit different.
Stay away from water. In most of my posts about painting furniture I mention the importance of thoroughly scrubbing and washing the furniture first thing. You do NOT want to do that with raw wood. Keep water away from the surface! Water will lift the grain and damage the wood.
Instead you just need to simply sand the surface lightly. Prepare the surface for paint by first using 120 to 150 grit sandpaper, and then proceed to finer grades, such as, 220. Always sand in the direction of the wood grain. Never go against it. Be careful not to over-sand.
You must prime in order to seal the surface. With raw pieces primer is a must. Use an oil based primmer to seal the wood. Using a water based paint will raise the grain and create a very rough surface. Primmer will allow your paint to sit on top of the surface, rather than be absorbed into the wood. Priming will save you on the amount of paint you use. It will also provide a surface for your paint to adhere to and help create a more even finish with your final coat.
Sand between coats. After you have primed be sure to sand the piece with a fine grit sand paper, like 320, to get a silky smooth surface. Now you are ready for a top coat.
Note: Oil based or water based paints can both be applied over oil based primmer. If you use a water based primmer you must use a water based top coat.
6 Responses to Painting raw wood
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Alchemy fine living is an antiques & home furnishings business located in Santa Ana, Ca. Alchemy can be defined as an inexplicable or mysterious transmuting power or process; transforming something common into something special.ABOUT ME
Alchemy fine living is my antiques & home furnishings business. I'm Deana, the author of this blog. My mom Connie & I followed our dreams & opened our store in 2008. It's a collection of all the things she & I truly love. We combine antiques with new treasures, as well as, a selection of handcrafted items created by the two of us. We also offer custom sewing, re-upholstery, & furniture painting services.
173 E City Place Dr.
Santa Ana, CA 92705CONNECT WITH ME
Hi Deana, I came across your website last night and look forward to reading more as well as coming into your store. I’m local. I acquired a 1953 Encyclopedia Britannica bookshelf. For sentimental reasons, I do not want to paint it and would like to keep the current wood finish. After pulling out all of the encyclopedias, the shelves appear old and dry. I think that using Pledge or a similar product is “out” these days. Is that correct? What can I do to improve it’s appearance without having it refurbished at this time. I don’t want to put a wax or anything on it, that will make it crackle or appear distressed as I have done with other pieces. I am new to this and would appreciate any comments. Thanks, Cheryl
Hi Chery, Howards Restor-a-Finish is an awesome product. You should be able to find it at Home Depot or Lowes. Here’s a direct link http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php
I have a raw wood dining table (alder) that I have been wanting to stain/paint for several years. I would like it to look black shabby chic with brown or beige undertones. I am not sure if I should us stain or paint and don’t want to primer it if I can avoid it. What do you recommend? It needs to be able to withstand every day use, wiping, and different temperatures so which would work better? Also, which kind of protectant/sealer should I use?
Paint or Stain both will give you a very durable finish, so it’s really a matter of preference. If you choose paint make sure it is an acrylic paint that is of high quality and has a sheen to it. Either way you will need to seal the wood first. If you go with a stain you’ll want to condition the wood first, so the stain takes evenly. If you paint I would seal it with a shellac before applying your top coat. With paint I don’t recommend a protective clear coat because they tend to discolor the paint over time, instead I like to you a paste wax. Good luck!
I have a raw wood dresser. Way too much paint was on it had to strip it off. Great piece! I am looking to do it white shabby chic with light distressing. So three questions. Picking a white color any suggestions? The more I look at chips the more confused I get. What type and brand paint do you recommend? And finally when finished painting do you seal the furniture with any protection? I love to share a picture of my piece with
you can I email it to you? Thank you for reading my post.
Hi Debbie,
My personal favorite and the white that is most requested by clients is good ole Swiss Coffee. Valspar, which is Lowes brand, makes a really nice Swiss Coffee. Use a semi-gloss and allow it plenty of time to cure before you use the piece of furniture. If it is good and cured (which can take up to several weeks) the paint will be hard and durable and there is no need for a clear coat. You can use a paste wax if you really want to take that extra step.