I am constantly being asked questions about painting, distressing, and re-finishing furniture. My inbox is full of email inquiries and many of you have the very same questions. I have decided to start a new series on my blog, called Ask Deana, in which I will do my very best to answer all of your most frequently asked questions.
This QUESTION came to me recently from one of my readers:
I have a question regarding distressing furniture. I have a piece of furniture that is a lighter shade of wood (I think it is pine). I was watching your video on how you distressed the antique table and I noticed that you primed the piece and then distressed it. Can you do that with lighter wood? Or would I need to prime, then paint a darker brown and then paint white over the dark brown?
Here is my ANSWER:
You can do this two different ways. First you could stain the wood dark before painting it. In order to stain the piece you would need to strip it because the stain needs to penetrate the wood and will not do that if the piece has a clear finish on it now. Make sure to use a product that is just a stain, not a stain and finish in one. Follow the manufacturers instructions and apply as many coats as you like until you have achieved the level of darkness you desire. After you’ve given your furniture all the coats of stain that you want, allow it to thoroughly dry and then lightly sand the piece with 220 grit sand paper. Now you are ready to prime and paint. CLICK HERE to view a post on how to strip and re-stain furniture. This link also includes specific products I use to do the job.
The second way you can go about doing this is to prime and paint the piece first. Then after distressing it apply the stain. The stain will penetrate the exposed wood, turning it darker, but it will also stain the paint changing the color of your finish. If you desire a very aged, antiqued look this is a good way to go. If you decide to go with this method be sure to properly prepare the furniture for paint before priming it. To do that you will need to scrub the piece with TSP or a degreaser and then sand it well with 220 grit sandpaper. You need to create a clean, scuffed up surface for the paint to adhere to.
The piece shown below was stained after it was painted white. You can see that is now more of a tea stained color, rather than a pure white. In the close up you can see how the stain made the distressed areas nice and dark. CLICK HERE to see exactly how this technique is down.
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Alchemy fine living is an antiques & home furnishings business located in Santa Ana, Ca. Alchemy can be defined as an inexplicable or mysterious transmuting power or process; transforming something common into something special.ABOUT ME
Alchemy fine living is my antiques & home furnishings business. I'm Deana, the author of this blog. My mom Connie & I followed our dreams & opened our store in 2008. It's a collection of all the things she & I truly love. We combine antiques with new treasures, as well as, a selection of handcrafted items created by the two of us. We also offer custom sewing, re-upholstery, & furniture painting services.
173 E City Place Dr.
Santa Ana, CA 92705CONNECT WITH ME
I have two pieces of unfinished furniture that I want to distress. What do you suggest as the prep for the pieces. Thank you! I have truly enjoyed your website and videos on youtube.
Thank you again.
Tracy ~ Kentucky
This post should answer your question http://www.alchemyfineliving.com/blog/2012/09/20/painting-raw-wood/
Hi!
So, I actually paint by both spray gun and brushes depending on the size and type of finish I’m doing. However, I’ve painted a dresser and a couple of night stands with my spray gun and notice that I get paint on the sides and insides of the drawers, and on the inside of the piece itself. How do you “spray” paint your furniture without creating these issues? I feel as though it makes it look not-so-neat. Do you hand paint the drawers and just spray all over the dresser with the spray gun? Thank you for your response!!
I usually paint the drawers seperate from the piece. I’ll wrap them in an old sheet, so only the face is exposed and the drawers don’t get any over spray on them. If I do get a little over spray in undesired spaces I’ll use TSP or Lacquer thinner to clean the spots off. It usually comes off pretty easily.
Thanks Deana! I will try that
What about the front of the dresser where the drawers originally go? When I sprayed that part, the paint got inside (no biggie) but when I put the drawers back in, they didn’t slide as smooth because paint got on the drawer “sliders”. Do you cover this part at all? Hope this makes sense, and thanks again! 
:)
I don’t, but the gun I have can be controlled really well, so I usually don’t get paint on the insides. If your gun has a big spray pattern or lots of over spray I would recommend covering the inside of the dresser, you don’t want paint messing up the drawer glides.
I would like to redo a hutch that is vaneer and the tops are peeling I plan on replace with either 1/4 or 1/8 in in some kind of plywood. And then paint it gloss black so what type of paint should I use thank you
Plywood when painted will show grain, knots, and other imperfections. If you’re going for a rustic look that would be a good choice. If not, I wouldn’t recommend plywood. A paint grade wood would be a better choice. As far as the paint goes I like Sherwin Williams or Dunn Edwards.
Hello, I have a question regarding electric sprayers. I have seen you use two types I know ne is the graco blue one but also I have seen you use a yellow wahner I believe is a control spray unit. Which one do you like better? Or are they used for different things? Also I was reading on the wagner control spray unit can this unit be used for water based acrylic paint etc or will it be too thick. I am wanting to buy an electric sprayer to cut down on painting time not sure which one to buy maybe you can recommend one for a newbie thank you for all your amazing videos such a great help blessings.
check out this article I wrote. I think it will be helpful
http://www.alchemyfineliving.com/blog/2012/05/10/the-spray-gun-that-i-use/
Hi Deana,
I have a piece that has a plastic molding on it. I’ve tried prying it off, but it just will not budge. It’s not too bad looking, but I was needing to find out how to prep that. The piece is already cracking and peeling on the molding….
What can I do to ensure that doesn’t happen after I’m finished with it?
Thanks so much for your VERY helpful information.
Blessings,
janice
When painting plastic a bonding or adhesive primer is a must. As far as the cracking and peeling that is on it now, that needs to be removed. It’s so hard for me to say without seeing it how best to remove the cracking and peeling; I don’t really know what your dealing with. (Sorry, that’s probably not much help)